Three key points of cultivation of wintering cucumber

First, fertilizing the land

It is necessary to apply enough base fertilizer to cultivate wintering cucumbers. The base fertilizer should be mainly composed of decomposed straw compost, cattle and horse manure, chicken manure, pig manure and manure (the manure should be applied before the film is applied), and when the manure and manure are applied, the amount of minced fresh can be mixed. Straw, fully decomposed wheat bran, rice husk and discarded edible fungus culture medium. Generally, the farmer's fertilizer is 3000-5000 kg, 100 kg of superphosphate or 30-50 kg of diammonium phosphate or 40-50 kg of biological fertilizer or 200 kg of cake fertilizer. When the bottom fertilizer is used for a long time, it can be applied at 2/3 or 1/3. After the ground is applied, it will be deeped twice, and then the ditch will be ditched by the line spacing. The remaining fertilizer will be put into the ditch, fully mixed with the soil, and then the water will be poured into the ditch to make the agricultural news. Overwintering cucumber cultivation generally takes large and small ridges, with a small row spacing of 80 cm, a large row spacing of 100 cm, and a planting of 3,300 to 3,500 plants per mu.

Second, colonization

1. Planting seedlings should be carried out on sunny days. According to the large, medium and small grades, the seedlings are transported to the side of the planting ridge. From the perspective of the whole greenhouse, the seedlings should be placed at the east and west ends of the greenhouse and the greenhouse should be placed in the middle of the greenhouse. From a line of view, the seedlings are in front, the seedlings are in the back, and the general seedlings are in the middle, which is beneficial to the subsequent growth.

Because the light in the greenhouse is strong and weak, the seedlings and seedlings should be mastered before and after the seedlings, so that the seedlings in different parts get basically similar light. When planting, the planting distance can be opened according to the plant spacing, and the seedlings can be planted in the hole; or a deep ditch can be opened on the planting ridge, and the seedlings can be placed in the ditch to be fixed in the ditch. Watering in the cave or in the ditch, sealing the pit (ditch) after the water seeps. Note that the seedlings should not be planted deep. After the soil is sealed, the nursery and the ridge surface are flat. Note that the marriage interface cannot be buried in the soil.

2, covering the mulch film in the past people used to mulch after planting cucumber, or cover the mulch immediately after planting. This is actually not conducive to the deep rooting of the grafted roots, which reduces the ability of the plants to resist cold and cold. Because the ground temperature is higher at the time of planting, it is not necessary to cover the film. After the planting, it should be based on repeated strokes to promote the deep rooting of the roots, and cover the mulch film about 15 days after planting.

Third, hanging vine

When cultivating wintering cucumbers, in order to promote development and maintain the vitality of the roots, most of them are methods of not allowing them to grow naturally. Overwintering cucumbers generally grow to 40 to 50 knots, and the greenhouse is limited in height.

In order to facilitate the vine, the nylon thread, the cloth hang, or the nylon mesh bracket are generally used, which can greatly reduce the shading of the frame. When hanging nylon or nylon mesh, try not to connect directly to the greenhouse arch, preferably stand alone. The nylon thread for hanging should be left in the upper part to be used for the vine.

When hanging the vines, the operation should be light, do not sink too much at a time, and do not damage the blades. To make the blades evenly distributed in space, do not block each other. At the same time, it is necessary to remove the lower yellow leaves, side branches, tendrils, male flowers, deformed melons and diseased melons. Leaf picking is not a necessary measure. Generally, the leaves that are better in growth and more intact should not be easily removed. Generally, the leaves should not exceed 2 to 3 pieces, and try to keep about 20 pieces of functional leaves per plant.

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